Materials on ethnomusiology

Српске народне ношње у Славонији, Барањи и Западном Срему (2000)

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The Serbian peasant clothing in Slavonia, Baranja and Wester Srem belongs to the type of Pannonian folk costume. The principal characteristic of the Pannonian costume is the loose, straight-cut garment of both the man and the women, made up of white cloth fabric and shaped to the body by means of folds. These clothes were worn in both summer and winter. In the cold season, leather, wool and fur were added.

The main components of the Serbian men’s wear in the 19th and first half of the 20th century were the shirt and trousers made of domestic white cotton cloth, a vest, a hat, woolen wrap­pings for the legs and a type of peasant leather moccassin. In some regions, a plastron was worn over the shirt and a ”posa,„ a black plush band embroidered with gold thread. The vest, the shirt and trousers were the principal articles of summer wear for the men. The belt was not a part of this costume in all these areas, but the bag was a favourite part of this dress. Aprons ap­pear as component parts of the young men’s festive clothes among the Baranja Serbs. Together with the main cloth habit, other ar­ticles for winter wear were made of coarse cloth and fur, such as the throusers, fleece-lined jackets, capes, vests, leather jerkins, sheepskin coats and astrakhans. This wear fell out of use after World War I.

At the end of the 19th and early 20th century, women’s clothes appeared in two variants: the first of these was an archaic one made up of a long one-pieces gannent held in at the waist and the other was a two-piece dress. The second type was of a more recent style and appeared in two forms. Atypical example of the costume with a one-piece dress, was worn by young mar­ried women from the environs of Bakovo. The principal parts of this costume consist of a sash, an apron, a gold-embroidered shawl, a kerchief for the head, stockings and shoes. The second variant of the Serbian women’s wear in this region is the two- piece garment, the ’’oplccka,, (covering the upper part of the body) and the ”skuta„ (covering the lower part). The ’’oplccka,, is found in two basic cuts. Other parts of this costume include the petti­coat, skirt, best, belt, apron, shirtwaist, shawl and the head-dress. It was obligatory for married women to cover their heads so that we know of several kinds of such coverings: the ’’ubradaj,, or kerchief for the head and chin, the kerchief and cap. The women adorned themselves with ducats, strings of glass beads, earrings, bracelets and rings. In winter, like the menfolk, the women wore clothes of coarse fabric, leather and fur. Most often leather jer­kins were worn but also fleece-lined jackets and fur coats. The women’s clothes persisted in some regions up to the fifties of the 20th century.

With regard to materials, cuts and decoration, the children’s costumes did not different from those worn by the adults.

Шарац Момчиловић В. Српске народне ношње у Славонији, Барањи и Западном Срему // Традиционална култура Срба у Српској Крајини и у Хрватској. 2000. С. 171-198.